This week our village friends (with the rest of the country) celebrated one of the most important days in their calendar. It is a big event. For those who can afford it, everyone gets a new outfit and new shoes. Women and girls get new jewelry and they ALL have their hair styled. Friends and relatives come from far and near to visit. People cook BIG meals and everyone tries to get a little bit of meat to put with it.
In the past, I will confess, it has not been one of my favorite times of year. Several weeks before the big day, my friends (even people I had never met) came and begged me for money to buy the new outfits. As people started to come into town to celebrate, my porch got busier and busier. Everyone wanted to see the white people, everyone wanted to visit and interrupt school, and everyone wanted free medicine. Frankly, it made me fussy. I felt a little like the Grinch.
This year, we got to celebrate in our new village and we actually have friends here now. Yesterday, I decided to head out into town to check out what was going on. I took my camera with me. I saw lots of people dressed up. Little girls were getting washed up and getting their hair done. Everyone wanted their picture taken. I finally stopped at the hut of some friends – the 2 wives of the blacksmith. With 2 wives, there are a flock of adorable kids, and they LOVE me. They like to run up and throw their little, pudgy arms around my legs. They like to hold my hand and pet my arms. One of the wives just had a baby 2 months ago and the other one is about 15 months pregnant (okay, maybe only 9 months – but her stomach is HUGE!)
I sat with them as they got everyone ready. They were trying to plant (braid) the 3 year olds hair – but she could not sit still. There was too much to see. They tried everything: threatening, bribing, yelling – nothing was working. I was playing with the other kids and taking pictures. Finally they told her that if she sat still and got her hair finished, Gulun-nga (that’s me – the twin mom) would take her picture in her new outfit. That did the trick.
As they finished with her, the 12 (ish) year old girl came out all dressed up. She wanted me to put her make-up on. For some reason, that really touched me. If only she knew that I had no idea what I was doing. Their idea of putting on make-up is not the same as ours. I managed to get it on – and it looked pretty darn good. After that, I had a full time job – helping with make-up, earrings, dresses, and being the official photographer. Busy, busy, busy. Finally everyone was ready. They were SO excited – they could not sit still. We got up and danced a little and I headed off to visit some other people. I left there with an overwhelming feeling like I belonged. I was accepted as part of the group, like an aunt or good friend.
I finished my walk through town, talking and greeting and having a great time. Unfortunately, I didn’t reach all of my friends’ houses. My time was cut short by a sick baby that needed medicine, so I had to go home and help him. Bu the whole evening, I was overwhelmed with a feeling of happiness and thankfulness that we get to be here and be a part of their lives and their celebration. There is nothing like a party to bring the world together.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
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